The season opens the way most trips here do: through a small window, onto an island almost too bright to be real. Panglao is the first thing most travelers see of Bohol, and most of them stop at the beach.
We go to dinner instead. At Kapre, Chef Brian Kennett cooks with asín tibuok, a salt that nearly disappeared, and the family that brought it back is sitting at the table. So is the man who grows the coffee, Liberica from the hills of Mabini. Before the season has a single rule, it has a meal, and everyone at it can tell you where their part came from.
Then the light does the rest. A day in the water. A day where the crew picks the road, finds someone willing to let us in, and follows them. It’s the lightest episode of the season, and it’s where Liz first hears the rule the rest of it runs on. Someone has to let you in.
